3 days in Hokkaido: Sapporo & Hiking Mt. Yotei

I’ll add a few more photos later, but didn’t want to delay sharing the itinerary.  

Summary

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This was my first time in Hokkaido and I thought this itinerary was perfect to get a brief taste of the island. I had a fun time with a challenging hike, eating new and delicious food (as always), visiting deeper into the Japan countryside for my first time, and a distillery tour. Even better: this was done fully with public transportation - no rental cars or taxis!  This could make a great weekend or a quick trip to Hokkaido.  Be aware there is a limited season for hiking Mt. Yotei.  I did it in early/mid-October.

Day 1: Arrive at CTS, train to Kutchan for hike

I arrived in CTS late-morning on a domestic flight from HND.  

Lunch recommendation in Sapporo: soup curry.   I ate at Okushiba Shoten / 奥芝商店 駅前創成寺.  I had their shrimp soup option.  It’s warm comfort food at its best. I loved it and have since learned it's very difficult to find.  You can browse their website if you want to get hungry.

The train ride from Sapporo to Kutchan is ~2.5h and requires a transfer at Otaru.

Train journey recommendation: Nikka distillery, walkable from Yoichi station.  The distillery is fun to walk around (active furnaces, and modeled after a Scottish distillery) and offers free samples.  And near the station, there was a good-looking fish market / store.  I guess you can't buy the fresh fish that all looked good and cheap, but you could buy dried seafood at very good prices or eat there, if you're hungry.

The segment from around Yoichi to Kutchan was particularly fun on the train: short trains on single tracks. Trains going in opposite directions were (of course) perfectly scheduled to meet & pass at stations, to utilize the single track without delays. 

Hotel: I stayed at Tabi tsumugi.  I usually don’t stay at hostels anymore, as I highly value a private room and bathroom, but it was offseason (early October) and I had the bunk room to myself, and it's run by an owner who kept things super tidy. It was clean, and as part of the rate, the owner offered a ride to nearby destinations which worked perfectly on my hike.  It was a good deal.

There was a supermarket by the train station where I bought dinner as it was getting late, plus breakfast and lunch for the hike the next day.  Looking back I'd rather have eaten in Yoichi for dinner.

Day 2: Mt. Yotei hike

In early October, hiking Mt. Yotei was like crossing three seasons over the hike: still green at the base, autumn midway, and early winter at the summit. In the winter, it's a backcountry skiing destination. 

There are multiple trails to the summit (i.e., crater) of Mt. Yotei.  I took the trail that left from Lake Hangetsu. Some trails are easier than others; there's no other good choice relying on public transit, so starting from Lake Hangetsu was the best option.  The hostel owner drove me to the trailhead.  This is the trail map.

The trail is fun, especially because of the interesting trail - flora, autumn colors, etc.  It was a nice case where the journey was better than the end.  It is also challenging - I was a bit out of shape and thought it was one of the tougher day hikes I've done. 

For the return, keep the bus schedule in mind. I returned during a several hour gap in service, and just walked the ~4mi (7 km) into Kutchan.  I’d arrive at about the same time.  There were no taxis roaming.  I considered hitchhiking for the first time ever, but was too shy for that! 

Post-hike recommendation: There are several onsen west of Mt Yotei. I was out of shape when I took this hike and didn't have time to do anything after the hike, between my extended hiking time and missing the bus.  Reaching them may require a taxi.

Hotel: I stayed at Red Planet Hotel (now renamed Smile Hotel) after taking the train to Sapporo after the hike.  It was a good value and clean, although a bit far from the closest train station.  It ran a bit cheaper than the typical business hotels.

Day 3: Sapporo and depart CTS

Breakfast recommendation: around the Sapporo morning market.  I ate a kaisendon at 定食めし屋.  The seafood was very fresh - around here is probably among the freshest salmon you can find.

There are plenty of existing guides on what to do in Sapporo.

Pre-flight recommendation: Airport onsen at New Chitose.

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How to get here

• I visited in October 2019.
• Train - Kutchan is on the JR Hakodate line. While I approached from the north coming from Sapporo/Otaru, you can also approach from the south if you had a more interesting journey planned!
• Air - Sapporo is the closest city with nearby airports. Most will fly into New Chitose (CTS) although from Hokkaido or northern Honshu you can also fly a prop into Okadama Airport (OKD), closer to Sapporo city center.  
• How I traveled here - I had a business trip in Japan and fit this in.  I flew on Japan Airlines domestically to/from CTS for 7,500 American Airlines miles each way.
• Domestic flying in Japan, flying full-service JAL for example, is underrated and always pleasant.  Compared to the US and especially Europe, Japan domestic flying is hyper-efficient. I arrive at HND ~35mins before departure even with checked baggage.  I guess the airlines are competing with the shinkansen.  I would allocate more time if I’m flying low-cost carriers with checked luggage or a low-cost terminal, like KIX T2. 
• Click for packing and preparation tips.  I can also help you plan your trip.