4 days in Kumamoto, Japan
Table of Contents
- Summary
- Travel day: Arrive Kumamoto
- Day 1: Aso hike
- Day 2: Kuju mountains hike, Aso crater, Kurokawa onsen & ryokan
- Day 3: Kurokawa and return to Kumamoto
- Day 4: JR sightseeing train, Amakusa Islands
- How to get here
- How to get around & driving precautions
- Cost for 4 days (excluding transport to/from Kumamoto)
Summary
| Day | Activity | Notable food | Hotel |
| 1 | Aso hike | Akaushi beef bowl, | near Kuju mountains: Stardust Village |
| 2 | Kuju mountains hike, Aso crater visit, Kurokawa onsen | - | Kurokawa: Ryokan (several options) |
| 3 | Kurokawa onsen, | Kurokawa ryokan set dinner | Kumamoto city: Daiwa |
| 4 | JR sightseeing train ("A train"), | Sushi, Chicken sashimi | - |
This itinerary has been my most fun segment of Japan travel. This was also my first time in Kyushu, and I loved it. It included everything I look for in a vacation: one-of-a-kind natural sights, hiking opportunities, relaxation, unique regional food, and even a train experience. I also think the cost was very reasonable and the value extraordinary.
I thought 4 days is comfortable for this itinerary. It could be expanded by a day, or combined with another area of Kyushu (like Yakushima!) for a 1 week Kyushu plan. I think Kyushu is still off-the-beaten path in Japan and I wish more people would venture further south. It might be too far for the Shinkansen from Tokyo, but domestic flights from Tokyo to major Kyushu cities are efficient and cheap.
Travel day: Arrive Kumamoto
I arrived into KUM airport on the last flight of the evening (coming from the USA via HND), and took the public bus from KUM to the city center. It's a slow, ~1h slog on the city bus from the airport to downtown.
We stayed at two different hotels in Kumamoto city: a Daiwa Roynet (more recommended) and a Richmond (cheaper option). [Hotel tip: Japan has several business traveler-oriented chains like Daiwa, Mitsui Garden, Richmond, Dormy at $80-150 USD/night that offer good value. The rooms are always small but they get all the basics right: clean, good beds, efficient checkin, free coffee, vending machines throughout, convenience store often in the basement, etc. I've become more loyal to Daiwa over time but the chains are similar and naturally some locations are better than others.]
Day 1: Aso hike
I woke shortly after sunrise and retrieved my rental car near the train station. [If replicating this trip, it may be better to stay near the airport or the train station for easier.] At the train station, I also bought reserved tickets for the Day 4 sightseeing train. Kumamoto has charming streetcars from the 1950s - look at that wood flooring!
For the hike, we stopped en route at a bakery for a packed lunch, and a convenience store for bottled water.
To overlook the crater, we took a route starting from the Sensuiko parking lot, along a abandoned ropeway. The abandoned concrete structures, fall grass colors, and fog gave an otherworldly feel.
The path was well-maintained with stairs. While Aso isn't initially in view, the pathway quickly reaches sulfur vents. There are concrete shelters in case of eruption. The overlook opens to epic views of Aso and the surrounding area.
After the overlook, you can make your own adventure to continue the hike. The topology is extremely unique. We continued to Nakadake and Takadake peaks. Japan-guide has a good map of the area.
There are two options for descent back to the parking lot: (1) return the way you came via stars (2) return via a steep rock path. The rock path is very steep, very long, and not interesting. If you aren't used to this type of hiking, I'd recommend returning via the stairs.
We made it to the parking lot just before total darkness and started the drive to our hotel. We stayed at a rural hotel for the night, also conveniently located for my hike the next day. The inn was basic but comfortable and offered an outdoor onsen and dinner packages. We reserved an in-room hot pot dinner set and arrived with all the ingredients in the refrigerator, ready to cook! The hotel also had an indoor and outdoor restaurant/dining area, although it was closed when we arrived.
Day 2: Kuju mountains hike, Aso crater, Kurokawa onsen & ryokan
I woke up at sunrise to hike around the Kuju mountains, the highest mountains in Kyushu. I parked and started at the Makinoto Pass, with an end goal of reaching Mt. Naka-dake. I constructed my own path to Mts. Kuju, Inaboshi, and Naka-dake. The trail network is extremely well-kept, although it's easy to lose the path on lesser used trails and along the rocky parts of the ridges. It was a fun casual yet calorie-burning hike along ridges and I returned by mid-morning. I advise to make advance plans about packing food as the trailhead shop was not open early and did not have takeaway food, and there are no convenience stores nearby.
Awe-struck by Aso the previous day, we returned to look inside the crater from the official observation area. We waited several hours for the viewing area to open - it is often closed due to unfavorable winds directing toxic volcanic gases on the viewing area; this is not predictable and changes by the hour. It is also often closed entirely for long periods of time due to eruption risk. See best-case opening hours here and check this website for real-time status. We only had a few minutes at the observation area and couldn't see much, as the winds changed unfavorably again and everyone was evacuated back to the base.
Mid-afternoon, we began driving to Kurokawa for our ryokan stay. We stopped for food souvenirs at Aso Milk Factory which had good stuff. Make the time to stop along your drives to enjoy the scenery. Kyushu is also known for brown cattle that becomes famous beef bowls and soft-serve which can be found along the drive.
Kurokawa is one of Japan's most famous onsen towns, and dare I say the best. The water is fantastic, and the town maintains a traditional village feel. All the onsens are small. Other onsen towns are trending towards resort experiences with large hotels.
At our ryokan in Kurokawa, I enjoyed multiple visits to the onsen between dinner. During the day, you can also buy a onsen pass to go onsen-hopping around town. It's a necessity to book a ryokan directly through their website. Most ryokan offer so many different packages - different meal offerings, different level of meals, varying rates for each room - and this complexity does not translate well at all to common booking platforms.
Day 3: Kurokawa and return to Kumamoto
After two packed days of hiking, driving, eating, and onsen that immediately followed 16+ hours of flying, it was time for a slower paced day.
We strolled around Kurokawa, which was especially picturesque in autumn colors (a little past peak when we visited) and blooming camellias.
Then we started the drive back to Kumamoto. We stopped nearby at a water spring to enjoy a park surrounding the stream. Naturally, we also refilled our water bottles with the spring water from designated taps. This area needs to be especially respected as it is rare to find water streams so productive and publicly accessible that are safe enough for drinking water.
After arriving back at Kumamoto, I returned the car just before the agency closed for the night.
Day 4: JR sightseeing train, Amakusa Islands
JR Kyushu runs several tourist (sightseeing) trains throughout the island. I took the A-Train, a uniquely-outfitted two-car train that runs express to Misumi. It cost just a "reserved seat" limited express fee on top of the local train fare that runs along the same line. It is fun, and truly unique, what JR Kyushu offers at minimal cost to promote tourism. The A-train runs on weekends and public holidays so we were lucky the timing worked out.
The Misumi station is nicely renovated with a design that seemed to match the A-Train. There is a room in the station where you can take tourist pamphlets and maps. Around Misumi are a few attractions you can visit; our plan was to eat and enjoy driving around the islands. We rented a car for the day to explore the islands from a local agency located next to the the train station.
First we stopped for sushi lunch. Small port towns in Japan usually means there is delicious sushi to be had, and mostly composed of the local catch!
We drove to an overlook inside a park that gave a nice view of the surrounding islands after a short walk. We also drove to a beach that seemed to be abandoned.
In between we stopped at a restaurant specifically so I could eat chicken sashimi for the first time, one of the regional specialties. I loved how the restaurant offered all things chicken, and I wish I could eat more of their menu. We just made it before their lunch last-call. The restaurant was also run by super friendly people and we had a friendly chat with them.
We opted to take the "regular" train back to Kumamoto. While of course lacking the A-train flair, it's was so pleasant to ride - the textbook everyday comfortable ride through a portion of rural and single-tracked Japan.
From the main train station we took the airport bus for a late flight to ITM, where we caught Kyoto in peak autumn for a few days. It was goodbye to Kumamon, who was EVERYWHERE - and yes, I became one of his fans.
How to get here
- Air - There is a regional airport (KMJ) a ~1 hour bus ride from Kumamoto city, with frequent flights to Tokyo and Osaka, and very limited international flights.
- Train - Kumamoto city is on a Shinkansen line ~1 hour from either Fukuoka or Kagoshima.
- It's convenient to fly from or connect through Tokyo. From Osaka and points south, take the Shinkansen. From most parts of Asia it may be most convenient to fly into Fukuoka and take the train (the airport and Shinkansen in Fukuoka are close.)
- How I traveled here - I visited November 2022. I arrived directly into KUM from New York. I flew Japan Airlines First Class from JFK-HND, connecting to HND-KUM, for 80,000 American Airlines miles + $6 USD. I departed on JAL, KUM-ITM for 13,600yen (~$100 USD) on a Japan Explorer Pass fare.
- Click for packing and preparation tips. I can also help you plan your trip.
How to get around & driving precautions
Self-driving by car is the best way to get around. Public transportation could be possible, but extremely limited. Some areas are serviced only 1x/day by bus. Japan requires foreigners to have an International Drivers License; be sure to acquire in your home country. This itinerary requires driving on winding mountain roads; they are built safely, but can still be unnerving to some. Remember that the driver's seat is on the right side of the car in Japan.
Cost for 4 days (excluding transport to/from Kumamoto)
Total with 1 person: 150000¥ or ~$1,000 USD (may be lower, as some meals were included in hotel rate)
Total with 2 people: 81000¥ or ~$560 USD per person
See my budgeting recommendations
| Day | Hotel | Transport | Activities | Meals |
| 0 | Kumamoto: 15000¥ | Airport bus: 1000¥ | - | - |
| 1 | Hotel Stardust: 20000¥ | Car, 3 days: 33000¥ | Water: 400¥ | B: 200¥ |
| 2 | Ryokan Yumerindo: 42000¥ | - | Crater parking: 800¥ | B: 200¥ |
| 3 | Kumamoto: 15000¥ | Gas, 3 days: 3000¥ | - | B: Ryokan included |
| 4 | - | Misumi, r/t: 1500¥ | A train (x1): 2000¥ | B: 200¥ |
| Σ | 92000¥ (92000¥ to split) | 45900¥ | 3200¥ (800¥ to split) | 9700¥ |