5 days in the Faroe Islands

Summary

This itinerary takes you around most of the islands. The order is not strict; be flexible to accommodate good weather for your most anticipated activities, and some days could be combined.

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I am making an exception to a "long weekend" trip with a five day itinerary in the Faroe Islands.  The Faroe Islands can be hard to get to, and their beauty is magnified when explored at a slower pace. 

Day 1: Arrive into FAE + Vagar island

I arrived late morning into FAE airport, so I still had a full afternoon ahead.  From FAE, take the road (there is just one main road) west, as far as it goes, to Gásadalur. There is a small parking lot at the village.  It's is a great spot for lunch and nearby hiking.

For lunch, stop in Gásadalsgarður.  It is one of the (very) few places to try uniquely Faroese dishes, like skerpikjøt, which is mutton cured by the bitter Faroese wind while hanging inside sheds.  Most locally-harvested foods like this stay within families, and is difficult for a tourist to find and try.

Then take a short village path hike (#13) from to Gásadalur to Bour.  It's just 2-3 hours round trip, and offers a beautiful overlook of Gásadalur and the surrounding hills and Mykines island. The path starts a short walk from the parking lot; the guide has a very good map to indicate where it starts, and most of these trails are also signposted with information where they begin.  It's wonderful.

Between the trailhead and the parking lot, there's a walking path to an overlook of Múlafossur waterfall. It's a nice view, seeing the cliff, waterfall over it, the village on the edge, and the hill behind, all in the same frame.  Depending on the season there are also puffins hanging out by these cliffs. 

Alternative: Traverse the length of Vagar island with hike #15. This seems like an amazing route to travel the length of an island (25.2km path) and pass abandoned villages that likely see no visitors anymore.  It requires a full day (so not suitable as a first day activity) and coordinating logistics in advance as the hike is one-way.

Hotel: It's a 60min drive from Gásadalur to Torshavn.  I stayed at Hotel Brandan in Torshavn which was reasonably priced, very clean, and had a good sauna which felt amazing after facing bitter wind/misty rain on most days. Overall it was cozy and I was satisfied with my stay.

Food: On arrival at Torshavn I highly recommend stocking provisions from Miklagarður, a great grocery store, the best on the island.  Near Hotel Brandan is also a pretty good brewery (OY Brewing); they had a bottle shop for takeaway although with limited hours.

Day 2: Streymoy

Streymoy had my favorite hike in the Faroe islands - the village hike between Tjørnuvík and Saksun.  From Torshavn, traverse almost the full length of Streymoy to Tjørnuvík.  The last portion of the drive is along a one-lane road and there is very limited parking in Tjørnuvík, so you may need to arrive early or late, and bring patience.

The hike: The village path (#7) from Tjørnuvík to Saksun starts on the opposite side of Tjørnuvík from the parking lot.

The hike traverses a hill (not around the island perimeter) so it's more strenuous and interesting. The views are just unparalleled on this hike (in order): the view of Tjørnuvík at the end of its fjord, a plateau that glistens in sunlight with its combination of grass, rock, and running water, the vantage point at top of the hill, maintained cairns marking the walking route, the howling wind that conveys the strength of nature and the austerity of the slopes, and a beautiful overlook of Saksun and its fjord.

I did not walk all the way to Saksun. After crossing over the hill, the wind was very strong and very cold (even mid-July.)  I was very happy descending a bit on the Saksun side before returning to Tjørnuvík.

I did this hike twice: the weather was poor as I ascended the first time (it's always worse at higher elevations) and I turned back early, so I returned on the best weather day. Here is a comparison of a similar view of Tjørnuvík on both days. I think the Faroes generally look better when cloudy.

In Tjørnuvík: Tjørnuvík was the most active village I visited.  There's a pleasant black sand beach.  When I visited, by the beach there was a small food cart selling coffee and homemade carrot cake, rhubarb yogurt dessert, and soup, with a nearby picnic table overlooking the beach, perfect for snacking and relaxing .  I really enjoyed these treats and hopefully she is still there. There was also a shop selling waffles (they were ok). 

The road to Tjørnuvík passes a bridge to Eysturoy island, the only non-tolled connection between Streymoy and Eysturoy, so it could be possible to do something in Eysturoy too. Near that bridge is a good looking fish & chips shack, which I could not try with its limited hours.

Alternatives: One can also drive to Saksun (there may be more parking there), walk the path to Tjørnuvík, rest & snack in Tjørnuvík, then return on the path.  I read online some people deviate from the top of the Tjørnuvík-Saksun path to hike to Mylingur, the northernmost point of Streymoy. This is not an official/maintained path (needs a good GPS device & map) and at the edge of a cliff. Be very careful when exposed along cliff edges as there is sometimes a false surface, moss/grass on top of loose dirt, not a stable rock, obviously very dangerous.

Breakfast in Torshavn & pack lunch: Go to Breyðvirkið, a spectacular sourdough bakery.  They sell delicious dinner rolls (I loved the poppy rolls in particular), and boules (loved the plain sourdough).  Their sourdough breads pack a ton of flavor, with perfect crust and a ton of hydrated. It is all reasonably priced, too.  I had their bread daily for breakfast, often for lunch, and even took bread home with me to enjoy post-trip. I tried (unsuccessfully) for months to replicate their rolls at home.  The pastries are good too - I enjoyed their kanelbullar - however the real star is the bread. 

I recommend packing lunch everyday, as it's hard to time the length/duration of the trails (e.g., could be very muddy and slippery) and most of the villages do not have substantial food.  I packed smoked salmon sandwiches.

Don't forget to walk around Torshavn: Torshavn is a very pleasant, clean, cosmopolitan, and walkable town. It makes for a pleasant stroll and a break from the nature walks. There is a partial VAT refund possible at the airport for large purchases (perhaps wool apparel?)

Day 3: Eysturoy

I did three village hikes in Eysturoy.  All were pleasant but can be skipped if short on time.

Village path hike #4, Hellurnar to Fuglafjørður: A pleasant village path, over a steep hill. While not especially remarkable, it did have great views in the clear weather I had.  It was my first break from clouds and mist for almost one week. The islands look so green and the hill edges so sharp in the sunshine.

Village path hike #5, Elduvík to Oyndarfjørður: This hike was just ok; I don't think I'd do it again.  The pathway went around and between hills. I did this early in my trip which helped me realize I have a preference for the hikes that go over hills instead.  It seemed easier to start this hike from Elduvík as I don't recall a trailhead at Oyndarfjørður.

I did enjoy the village of Elduvík, particularly its austere harbor and perhaps the nicest, cleanest public toilet I have ever seen. This is a remote village of less than 15 people, and look what it offers.  The Faroes really had the among the best overall public infrastructure I've ever seen, and it's so sparsely populated. It's really amazing. Seeing such care in services, information, signage, etc made me not only feel welcomed but appreciated the care for the environment and others. 

Hike to Slættaratindur, the highest peak in the Faroes - this is a quick ascent, not very high as the Faroes have  hills and not mountains. I did this mostly for the exercise. Unfortunately it was cloudy and misty towards the summit when I hiked this close to sundown, so I saw nothing on the top. Along the drive and the ascent, though, there is a nice view of the area including a lake/dam. Driving to/from Slættaratindur just before sundown and then during the long summer twilight was scenic.

Day 4: Kalsoy

Kalsoy is a small, sparsely inhabited island accessible only by ferry from Klaksvik.  You can hop-on the public ferry and pay on board.  I highly recommend at least one ferry trip while on the Faroes, even if it's just this short one: traveling around the islands by ferry offers a completely different vantage point.  Taking a car on the ferry will require reservation as there is limited space (and different queues for residents and visitors.)

Biking around Kalsoy: Most people will take the public bus around Kalsoy and the villages. A few will take their car.  Even fewer are doing my recommendation: biking  with a rental e-bike. It was entirely self-service, so reserve online in advance.  Because of the steep rolling hills, e-bikes are best; there is no regular bike option, which is probably a good thing.

Biking was a different experience.  Everything felt more personal while cruising on the bike (vs a car): hearing the birds and sheep, seeing and smelling the landscape, feeling the wind. The sensation of exiting a dark tunnel into the colors and sounds of the Faroese landscape was unforgettable.  There are few cars on Kalsoy so it's safe, even in the tunnels. There will likely be long stretches where you're the only one on the road.  

The bikes were stored in a container next to the ferry dock. When I visited, the bikes were in great condition with helmets provided. I didn't see anyone else biking during my visit. 

What to do in Kalsoy: Enjoy the ride and explore the towns. The towns are generally nice and well-kept, although feeling like a step back in time with preserved houses and remnants of industry in prior generations. Below are a few photos of Mikladalur village and harbor.

Hotel: To minimize driving, look into vacation homes around Klaksvik or east Eysturoy or Bordoy.  There are not many good places, so it is tough to arrange last-minute.  There are also a couple of hotels in Klaksvik and Airbnb.  Finding a nice, remote vacation home that would be ideal.

Day 5: Vidoy (Cape Enniberg hike) + ferry around islands 

Hike to the edge of the Faroes: Most of my hikes were the village hikes, which were not popularized on the internet, on Alltrails, etc - and I found them to be more enjoyable than the internet hikes.  There is one "Alltrails hike" worth doing, to Cape Enniberg, the northernmost point of the Faroes and at the edge of a 2300ft+ (700m+) cliff.  It will take several hours.  Clouds move through quickly, so it's worth staying at overlooks for a few minutes if the view is poor but the weather is otherwise ok.

It was steep, rocky, and cold/windy/misty towards the summit and cape, even on a relatively good weather day, then it became surprisingly green. The views were spectacular - with the other islands in sight (looking like battleships in the sea) and birds gliding along the cliffs.  The ground can be unstable at the cape, with moss covering nothing below, so don't get too close to the edge.

Ferry / island hopping: If the weather is nice, I highly recommend cruising with the public ferry from Hvannasund in Vidoy to the easternmost islands of Svinoy and Fugloy.   Take at least one ferry in the Faroe islands - if not this one, then a day in Kalsoy, at least.  You can also alight in those islands to explore, but the ferry schedules are very limited. Some ferries are also on-request only and require an advance call to the ferry operator, so plan this at least 1 day in advance.  I was not able to do this: I missed my desired ferry after getting multiple red-lights from Klaksvik to Hvannasund as there are several one-lane tunnels/roads.) So, allot extra time to catch your desired ferry (at least double the estimated drive time on navigation from Klaksvik); you probably have only one chance to catch it.

For other hikes, stick to the hiking book: I attempted a village hike in Bordoy, on the tourist website but not the book, from Norðtoftir to Klaksvík, but could not find the trailhead in Norðtoftir.  Of the trails from the tourist board this is the only one that "failed" me, so I recommend sticking to the trails in the hiking book. I should've tried village hike #1 instead.

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Make the most of your Faroe Islands trip

Helpful resources - mostly from the tourist board, to plan your trip. The tourist board has curated fantastic information (online, printed, info signs), and I highly recommend reading their material first.  It's better than a ton of internet searching, and consider printing it before arrival to explore the islands without electronics:

• Hiking guide: A spectacular guide of trails and historical information published by the tourism board; seek out a printed version on arrival
• Guides and maps for each island: After clicking on an island, towards the bottom of the island's page, there are printable maps; hotels often have printed foldable maps of each island
• Birding guide: available online only, so print in advance
• Food: A great article from the New Yorker on Faroese food

Disconnect & rely on the tourist office - The Faroe Islands are one of the last places in the world where you can visit, disconnect, and live a high-quality, analog life.  There's great public infrastructure that includes great roads and directional signage, fantastic free maps and guides available at the airport and hotels and informational signs in many towns and trailheads.  

This is how I imagine travel was decades ago and it is very freeing. I also think it is better than exhaustively planning for the Faroes: information on websites, trails on Alltrails, etc is not as good as relying on information from the tourist office and letting your explorations guide you.

Eating - There are very few restaurants / cafes outside of Torshavn and Klaksvik, the two largest cities, and those that exist have limited hours. A great option is to buy groceries: I ate a lot of fresh-baked rolls from Breyðvirkið (an AMAZING sourdough bakery) or Y (longer hours) in Torshavn and smoked fish from Miklagarður supermarket, inside a nice shopping mall.  Miklagarður had a very delicious smoked mackerel (very unique) and smoked salmon.  I love smoked fish and it was a good value here, so I was very happy. If you're staying in a condo/home, you can also cook.

Lodging - Most places are within a 90min drive so there is no need to over-optimize lodging locations.  The road network is excellent, and the drives are the most scenic and relaxing (and I'm someone that avoids driving.)  The tunnel tolls, however, are expensive. If you're in the Faroes for 4+ days and you'd like to reduce toll costs and driving a little, consider breaking the stay into two, like Torshavn (west and central area) and Klaksvik hotels (east area).  However, it's feasible to enjoy the simplicity of staying in one location the trip, at the expense of a little more pleasant driving.  Staying in one location can also give you more flexibility to plan around weather.

Is renting a car necessary?

Strictly speaking - no.  However, I strongly recommend it.  There is a surprisingly extensive public transit system, but frequencies are extremely limited, so relying on it means planning fully around the timetables.  I would not recommend that tradeoff here, where the magic is running on your schedule and making scenic stops almost anywhere.  There are ample pullouts throughout the country to safely stop, park, and enjoy the view. 

How to get here

• I visited in July 2024, as part of a Iceland and Faroe Islands trip.  You have logistical difficulties (flights can be frequently canceled to the Faroe Islands due to fog, especially if not flying Atlantic Airways) and bad weather days, or both, so planning with time buffer avoids frustration.  For logistical efficiency, I recommend merging the Faroe Islands trip with somewhere else for ~3 days and scheduling a Saturday-Saturday trip. I did this and visited Iceland before the Faroe Islands.  
• Air - Vagar (FAE) is the only airport on the Faroe Islands. A few airlines service it: Atlantic Airways (the Faroe Islands airline) and seasonal/sub-daily service from SAS, Wideroe, and Icelandair.  It is not uncommon for flights to be cancelled for multiple days (fog), and combined with sub-daily schedules, can significantly impair your trip. So fly Atlantic if at all possible which seems most capable of operating.  Icelandair really struggled in 2024, it's first year of service.
• Sea - There is a ferry run by Smyril Line to Tórshavn from Hirtshals, Denmark.  During the summer it extends further to western Iceland, with Tórshavn beign the midpoint stop in both directions.
• Click for packing and preparation tips.  I can also help you plan your trip.